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I was all prepared to write up the last in the series, but then last night this link landed in my lap, and I had to share it with you:
Austin Kleon on How to Steal Like an Artist ... very inspiring and honest stuff there, about creative people, how they work, their 'secrets,' etc. It's quite long but worth every minute spent reading.

I still want to share my last thoughts, though, so lucky you, you get a twofer! This isn't exactly art advice, more a general life thing, but I find it comes in most handy when considering creative work.

When I was growing up, if there was something that I wanted to do, but I grumbled about how hard it was at any step of the way, my dad would say something along the lines of 'Well, maybe you should give it up, it clearly doesn't matter very much to you.' This was a clever bit of goading that usually got me past the grumbling and put my nose to the grindstone again.

Ever since then, when faced with a daunting impediment, I have asked myself 'How much does it matter to you?' Usually it matters enough to find a way to get downtown every day during a bus strike, to book last-minute plane tickets to the UK, to give up everything I loved about living in Canada to do 2D animation, and any number of smaller things along the way. It's a good way to step back and keep things in perspective, when you might be distracted by petty cares.
Which matters more to you?
- being close to your high school friends or going to the college you want to go to, far away?
- a career that pays well or one that is rewarding in less tangible ways?
- being free of momentary embarrassment or talking to the boy you have a crush on?
- getting your project done on time or getting a full night's sleep?
- the fear of drawing attention to yourself or the expertise you will gain by carrying a sketchbook everywhere?

There may not be a wrong answer to any of them, but in twenty years when you look back on this decision, which option will you regret more?
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As you devote yourself to studying art in a serious, continuous way, you will notice a curious phenomenon. After the initial learning curve, you will find yourself coasting for a long time without noticeably improving, no matter how much work you do. You may even feel you're sliding back. This can be discouraging, frustrating, even depressing, but keep going and you'll find that suddenly – sometimes even overnight – your skills will bump up to the next level. It's weird, but I know I'm not the only one this happens to, because the phenomenon was described to me by my animation teacher, so there are at least two people in the world who follow this pattern, and there might be more ... At any rate, it has served as a consolation to me when I find myself on the downward slope, to know that a jump to the next level is just around the corner, according to the natural course of things.

It is also important to keep in mind that as you progress, the jumps become less dramatic – you go from forging a foundation to honing smaller facets of your skills set, so the improvements are less earth-shattering. Even though the slope might not be so steep, though, it does continue gradually upwards, it just takes longer ...
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When it comes to solid drawing, you just don't get better than Glen Keane. Luckily Mark Kennedy shares with us some handouts Glen did on the subject a while back.

Preach it, Glen!

EDIT: Fixed that link (sorry) and felt a bit guilty about such a low-content entry so, here, have Mr Kennedy's post on Expressive Poses as well!
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Have a random post by Mr Diaz that kind of encapsulates a lot of the basic thought behind character design:

Characters: Ya Gotta Tell Them Apart (That's my title, not his)

Warning: There are nipples. Minor and educational nipples, but still, the easily shocked might want to have mental censor bars on hand and you may want to think twice before clicking the link in a public place.
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In a previous entry I mentioned the phenomenon of burnout, and how a professional must soldier on regardless of whether or not they want to do what they're doing. Burnout is, unfortunately, a standard part of every creative profession I know of; creating takes a lot more mental energy and emotional involvement than just putting numbers in boxes, and this can be exhausting. Keep pushing through the exhaustion, and you end up damaging the underlying enthusiasm that kept you going in the first place. Sometimes this leaves you feeling like you've had it, that you can't do this anymore; some people get it so bad that they leave their artistic careers forever and take up forensic accounting or something. Burnouts can range anywhere from 'disinterest' to 'fierce hatred' towards your line of work, and likewise can take varying degrees of effort to overcome. Some are so severe they cannot be overcome. The aim of this post is to keep you from getting to the latter.

There are two important things to remember about burnouts:

1. They are natural
2. They don't have to be permanent

Now, if you're doing this for a living, you can't just throw up your hands and say 'That's it! I can't do any more work, I'm burnt out!' – that is called 'being a temperamental flaky artist,' and they're unlikely to hire you back again. You have to learn to work around, through, and over the burnouts if you're going to make a career of this.

Some Hints )
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I'm going to let Mark Kennedy pick up the 40 Days of Art for a little while, until I meet my deadline. Deadlines!! Aargh!

Anyway, here's what he has to say on a really basic thing to think about when plotting out your drawing, to make it clear and readable (as it should be!). And that thing is ... Silhouette!
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1. This one's easy and probably best for minor blockages: Try drawing with your non-dominant hand. I find this works a treat when I'm struggling with a caricature and I feel like I keep drawing the same (wrong) thing over and over, when I can feel how it ought to be in my mind.

2. Ban yourself from drawing your own stuff for a few days and throw yourself into studying other people's artwork – copying while thinking about what you're drawing can teach you a lot, and learning how other people approach design problems and express themselves can give you tools you might not have had before. It also sort of resets your muscle memory, as you are drawing unfamiliar shapes and speaking someone else's visual language.

3. A change is as good as a rest – sometimes you come up dry because you've emptied the well and you need to let the groundwater seep in again. Go for a walk out in nature and take your sketchbook; draw anything and everything that catches your eye, be it a flower, a shrub, the ridgeline of distant mountains, whatever, but NOT whatever it is you normally draw. Try to create a nice landscape study, maybe. Play with composition. Sometimes inspiration can sneak in without you even knowing it. (Of course if you normally draw nature stuff, this is obviously bad advice.)

4. Try changing tools. A tool that does not allow you to make a 'pretty' drawing, or one that is too imprecise to put your line exactly where you want it, will force you to concentrate on other things and will free you up a lot (no matter how frustrating it might be to start with). Try sharpie, chalk, fountain pen, fingerpaint, crayon, a stick in the sand, ketchup on a plate, whatever. Then, when you finally go back to your regular tool that does what you tell it to do, WOW! So easy!
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I am going to pass on to you a nugget of wisdom I received from my mother when I was getting burnt out towards the end of animation school. She had been in a similar situation in theatre school, and had been told by one of her teachers:
An amateur does it because they love to do it; a professional does it even when they don't want to.
The dividing line between amateur and professional is not skill level – there are blissfully talented amateurs out there that can draw/act/sculpt/yoyo/dance/sew circles around some professionals – but professionals do it for a living. It is their profession. If you want to pursue art, or anything else, as a career, you need to be able to make yourself do something even when it is the last thing you'd want to be doing. For some reason it's especially hard to do this when it's something you used to do purely for the love of it, rather than something you've never liked doing, but it needs to be done, otherwise you won't have a profession for very long.

I am lucky enough to be in a place, now, where I do things that I both enjoy and get paid for (most of the time), but it was not always thus – I can remember times where I drew the line so completely between amateur and professional drawing that I could have been drawing eight hours a day for weeks on end and, without thinking, tell people that 'I haven't drawn in ages.' I hadn't drawn anything for myself in ages, and all the pages and pages of drawings I'd done at work in that time didn't even register. I don't know if that's professionalism or just mental illness, but there you have it.

When you're planning to make the jump from amateur to professional, it's important to remember why you got into the field in the first place. Try to hold on to what you love about what you do, even if it means doing the same thing outside of work – especially if it means you do it outside of work. Fan art kept my love of drawing alive: If all I drew was what was required of me by the productions I was on, I would have come to hate my job very quickly, and never improved. I kept learning because I wanted my fan art to look better, so my amateur art took me much further than my professional art did. If you can be an amateur and a professional at the same time, you could have a very personally rewarding career ahead of you.
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You have an artist you admire and want to learn how they do what they do, but how do you learn to draw like them?

The simple answer is: trace trace trace, copy copy copy. But you can't just blindly duplicate the lines, you have to have your brain turned on while you're doing so or you won't learn anything. Try to think about the following things: )

Once you've studied a wide cross-section of the artist's work, try creating your own drawings in that artist's style. Try to make it look like that artist drew it, like you've uncovered a new piece of art by this person that no one had seen before. Forgery is fun, and educational! (Purely for learning purposes, you understand.)

And remember: LEARN FROM A WIDE VARIETY OF ARTISTS. You can be the best Mignola mimic in the world, but the world already has a Mignola! Make your own unique blend of influences!

If you want some informative examples of how other people have dissected artists' styles, the following 'Art of' books have style guides in them, though you may need a jeweler's loupe to read some of the text:
Fantasia 2000 (for Al Hirschfeld)
Hercules (for Gerald Scarfe – 'the swoop with a sudden reversal is a key Scarfe line!')
Mulan
Lilo & Stitch (for Chris Sanders)
I'm pretty sure I've seen Atlantis' somewhere before, but I don't think it was in the art book. Special Edition DVD maybe?
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As you develop as an artist, you tend to get drawn to certain artists who have gone before you, whose style you really connect with. Often people will ape someone else's style for a while, others just pick up influences. This is OK! It's how you learn. Humans are an imitative species – we learn by copying what others do – and copying of the work of masters who have gone before used to be a core part of a young artist's training. Our modern world is so obsessed with originality and individual expression that this aspect of artistic education has more or less disappeared, but that doesn't mean its educational value has. By all means, copy others' art, so long as you don't claim it as your own. Learn as much from it as you can!

The important thing is to keep moving on; don't identify with one artist alone for your whole life but move from artist to artist, picking up what you can from each of them. Gather enough influences and the pot will become so muddied the individual ingredients will be less apparent, and might recombine themselves in unexpected ways which might even appear new. Congratulations! You have arrived at your own personal style. Everyone's style is an amalgamation of influences: if you think someone is completely original, it's probably because you haven't been exposed to their influences yet. Ideally, your style should keep evolving, as you add new influences to the pot.

Another reason to keep moving on is that if you learn everything you know from one person, you learn their flaws as well as their strengths. This is artistic inbreeding! In broadening the gene pool you learn strengths from other artists that might compensate for weaknesses in the first, but of course they come with their own weaknesses, which you compensate for by finding another artist, and so on. Even if you emulate someone widely considered to be one of the best, you will only match them by about 70%, because you do not have their life experience, influences, or even their specific arrangement of nerves and tendons that causes them to hold a pencil a certain way and make this kind of stroke instead of that.

If you think of the world as white light, different artists' styles are like different coloured filters on it. You can project the world through a red filter or a green one, but keep piling on more of the same filter and the light just gets darker. Combine the two, though, and you get yellow, which really isn't very much like either of them. If you combine all colours, of course, you get white, i.e. the entirety of the world, but reality can be so much more interesting with a splash of colour.
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Before I start, a notification:

THIS IS NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR LIFE DRAWING. It is a supplement only.

Got that? Continuing.

Another useful way to use the stop-frame feature on your DVD player is to draw from live action films. If you're studying something in particular for animation this is the prime example of going straight to the source (rather than copying off someone else's interpretation of reality), but it can be useful for other artists as well. The thing about frames of film, as opposed to still photographs, is that you can see the forces and action at play. Why is the arm posed like it is? Because it's in the middle of swooping down from over here. Why is the person's spine bent one way instead of the other? Because they are going from this pose to that pose, or because the forces moving them flow through the spine in that way. And by stepping through the frames you can see this happen. It adds a lot of information to your drawing to know what came before and after, even if you're not animating it, and there's no better example of a frozen moment in time than a frame of film.

It's also a good way of studying costume, and the way clothes react to the body and motion. Not as good as the real thing, but some places don't do costumed life drawing ...

Wait, I think I need a reminder:

THIS IS NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR LIFE DRAWING.

That said, when you are drawing from a still frame, treat it like a life drawing: build it from the inside out and try to get it down as quickly as possible, to keep the life and spontaneity in it. When you're working off an image with no time limit, the temptation to get every detail exact and render it up all pretty-like can be overbearing, but then it just becomes copying a photo. But most importantly, remember it has volume. It might look like a flat image on your screen but you need to convince yourself it is a three-dimensional object, and draw it as such.
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Back in the day, when I was an animation nipper just learning the ropes, if I wanted to learn how to draw an animated character, I had to deconstruct what I could from pictures printed in art books, the occasional colouring book if it was drawn well, and low-res jpgs from Altavista image search. We didn't have a VCR that would do frame-by-frame very clearly, and if you left it on pause for more than a minute it would turn off. You kids are so spoiled these days with yer DVDs and yer Quicktimes and yer 1000x1200 online images! Why back in my day –

Wait, I had a point here. Oh yes! Drawing from the screen. )
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The ability to draw a wide number of things realistically improves not only the drawings you make, but your actual imagination!

Aaron Diaz Explains

Thanks to Raddishh for posting this link on Kadi's blog where I saw it and stole it. :)
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When you are drawing your character, be it from your imagination, off an existing image, or from life, try building up the figure 'naked' (for lack of a better term) to begin with, then adding clothes on top of that. This forces you not only to think about the construction and anatomy of your subject (rather than handwaving it away under drapery) but also to consider how the body affects the clothes it is interacting with, and how the creases and contours of the fabric indicate what is going on underneath. And, of course, your drawing will be that much more believable if it has a solid foundation.

Obviously it's best to figure out how this is done by starting with some drawing from life. Try to deconstruct what you're seeing, using the clues that are apparent to the eye; then when you build it up again from your own mind you can use those same clues to convey the information in your original underlying drawing.
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I've written a lot about drawing people, but today I have to touch upon our animal friends. Chances are at some point you will need to draw an animal so it's a good idea to be fairly familiar with them in general. Once again, there's really no way to get there other than just to draw them. People think this means going to a zoo, and it is certain that zoos are a great place to see a lot of different interesting animals in one location, but saying you can only learn to draw animals at a zoo is like saying you can only learn to cook in a fancy restaurant. Good old homestyle animals can teach you a lot, too! Chances are you or someone you know has a cat or dog – those will teach you about how quadrupeds work. You might know someone with a pet bird, or live close to a park in which there are ducks or geese, or live near the sea and have gulls and crows readily at hand, and everywhere has pigeons. You might have to travel a bit to find an ungulate, but if there's a petting zoo, stable, pony ride, or living history farm nearby, you've got a good resource for hoofed mammals. Reptiles, fish, amphibians, and arthropods are a bit harder to find, but also tend not to be so in-demand for drawings, so you can wait until you find yourself with access to a zoo to add those to your repertoire, or try to learn as much as you can from videos and books.

The key to successful animal drawing is to understand how the animal is built and how that comes into play in the pose you are drawing. Animals very rarely are so courteous as to stand still long enough for you to draw them, so you have to jot down a rough sketch of the pose as quickly as possible (the Bradbury Snapshot comes in handy here), then build information and details on that as you collect them from that animal as it goes about its business. The muscles and surface features will stay in the same place no matter what the animal is doing, all you have to do is take what you see in whatever position they're in now and apply it to the pose you drew before. In order to do this, you have to know some basics of their anatomy, so before you go drawing, do a bit of research. You can probably find some decent animal anatomy books at the library – I know DK puts out some useful stuff so check the J section too – or you can take the plunge and look up Muybridge's Animals in Motion, which is still one of the most exhaustive studies of animal anatomy in practise.

While the zoo is fun, your everyday sources of animal interaction can give you a good grounding in the different 'makes' of animal. If you know how to draw a bird, a quadruped carnivore, an ungulate, or even better, a couple from each group, you can use research and observation to learn how different species use the same basic structure in slightly different ways.

Also, don't limit yourself to doing anatomical drawings. See if you can also capture some of their body language; try to capture what they might be thinking or feeling. That really makes them come alive, rather than being furry/feathery/scaly robots of different shapes and sizes.
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When I was interning at James Baxter's studio, he set out his Four Essential Books for Every Animator, and now I pass them on to you:

The Animator's Survival Kit by Richard Williams
The Illusion of Life by Frank Thomas and Ollie Johnston
Human Locomotion and Animals in Motion by Eadweard Muybridge

... Actually, come to think of it, I think there might have been a fifth book, but alas that information is now lost to the ages ... until someone asks him. Or maybe I am just crazy.
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So you've gotten into an animation school ... now what?

THE PAIN!

I mean, um, learning. A lot. All in one go. You ready?

Luckily I came to the realisation fairly early in my college education that the more I put into school, the more I got out of it. It was possible to complete my assignments to an acceptable standard with a minimum of effort, but I learned more when I went the extra mile, even if what I learned was 'you have bit off more than you can chew.' That is a valuable lesson too! And of course it applies to any creative discipline, not just animation.

I think the assignment I learned this on was a toddler walk. I had roughed in some animation that was perfectly adequate, but I had a bit of spare time, so I decided I was going to give the toddler some ponytails and a little skirt, and tie down all the drawings. I still got it done on time without too much lost sleep, but I learned so much more about secondary action and draughtsmanship (and what I was capable of) than I would have if I'd left it at the bald generic toddler I'd had originally. Humans are inherently lazy – most of our greatest inventions come from our fundamental desire not to do things the hard way – so it's very easy to fall into the trap of 'good enough.' After realising how much I learned from that walking toddler, I put a little sign on my desk that read '"Good enough" is not good enough!' As it was only for internal consumption I knew I didn't mean it in that damaging, overbearing perfectionist kind of way, but rather simply that if I settled for the least I could do, I would get much less out of my precious little time spent in this institution. 'Good enough' should be your fallback position! Shoot for the stars! You can always come back to 'good enough,' but you'll be bringing with you the wisdom you've gained from the cosmos.
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So, you've diligently done all the exercises and independent study, but you want to work in animation, and you know there is a lot more to learn, so you need to go to animation school. But which one?

Before you decide: Do you really want to do this? )

The top animation school in the world is generally considered to be The California Institute of the Arts, or CalArts to everyone in the biz. No one can deny its place as alpha school, but before you throw yourself at it, there are some things you might want to consider:
CalArts, from an Outsider's Perspective )

Worthy Schools which are Not CalArts )
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I was lucky enough to work with James Baxter for a few months, a few years ago, with a group of other young animators. If you are not familiar with his work ... well, you probably are, you just don't know it. Here's a short YouTube compilation of some of his rough animation. (Yes, that is rough animation.) He has a distinctive way of drawing (besides 'perfect,' I mean) in which the lines don't look like big swoops but like someone breaking a trail through snow, as the pencil scrubs its way along its intended path. You have to get in pretty close to see it, and the only high-enough-res example I've been able to find online is a drawing of Belle and the Beast, which doesn't show it quite as strongly as some of his work in The Art of Hunchback, for example. One of my fellow acolytes asked him why he drew with that distinctive 'hairy' line, and he answered that it was because he didn't have the fine motor control to make quick gestural strokes go where he wanted them to.

On the Division between Draughtsmanship and Fine Motor Control )

Didn't get this up on Saturday, I apologise ... it's been a busy weekend.
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I was prepared to write up a whole thing on the idea of a clear rough drawing being better than a clean unclear one, but darn it if Mark Kennedy hasn't covered that already:

Temple of the Seven Golden Camels: Clear, not Clean

I think we all know what a clear drawing looks like, rough or clean, because it reads instantly. If you have to pick apart a drawing for a while to figure out what's going on in it, it is not clear. I see this a lot in rookie portfolios. Probably the best way to check if you're falling into this trap is to show a drawing to someone and look at them looking at it – if they are confused at all in the first couple of seconds, it might not be clear. Because the moment of truth is in the first impression, if you don't have anyone nearby to look over your art, try surprising yourself with it. You are probably familiar with how it looks on the page because you've been staring at it for the last hour or so, so you have to make it new somehow. You could take it to the bathroom, hold it below the level of the mirror for a few minutes, and then raise it up quickly so you get the mirror image flashed to you. Or scan it, flop it, save it and close the program immediately, do something else for a bit, then open the program and your image back up. Basically what you're trying to do is forget as much as you can of your intentions for the drawing and look at it in a new way, to see what it carries only at face value. If, when it comes into your vision again, it looks like a mess of spaghetti, it is not clear!

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