Expedition to the Observatory
Feb. 6th, 2011 08:56 pmOne doesn't usually think 'nature hike' and 'Los Angeles' in the same mental breath, but Griffith Park is practically in my backyard and has a surprising amount of nature in it. Also, tantalizingly, the Griffith Observatory is directly across the park from me.
In case I haven't mentioned it before on this blog, Griffith Observatory is the coolest place in LA. FACT.

Ever since finding this out I have intended to try to cross the park to get to it, but the general wisdom is Single Young(ish) Females Do Not Hike in Griffith Park Alone. I do not possess any martial arts skills, nor am I all that confident I could outrun anyone, so my aspirations were doomed to remain hypothetical.
But!
I recently discovered that one of my colleagues was an avid hiker and wanted to get back into it, so I proposed an Expedition, and he agreed! I figured out the course on Google Maps, and we set out on Saturday, which was the perfect temperature for hiking, if a bit hazy.
THE VOICE OF (limited) EXPERIENCE:
If you do not live in Burbank, or if you do but feel the need to drive, as long as you get there earlyish there is ample street parking along Zoo Dr near the Live Steamers. Travel Town also has a parking lot but they close it off at around sunset. You might also be able to park somewhere at the cemetery, I don't know.
The beginning of the trail (a.k.a. Griffith Park Dr) goes up from the west side of Travel Town. You can't miss it. It goes up. Follow that road until you get to this intersection:

If you take either of the routes to the left you will head towards the golf courses. This is lovely if you plan to play golf, but if you are aiming for the Observatory you'll have to climb the Hill of Death on the perimeter of the old dump to get back on track. I do not call it Hill of Death lightly: It is long. It is very steep. I think every sore muscle I got from this hike is from the 10-15 minutes spent on this hill (incl. pauses to gasp) and not from the 2 1/2 hour walk along the actual trail.
Anyway. Turn right! Fear not ye closèd gate; it is only to keep traffic off Mt Hollywood Dr. (There is a sign marking this intersection but I did not see it the first time on account of it lurking against a hillside rather than, y'know, at the corner. Psh.
At this point you begin possibly the loveliest part of the hike, what with the trees and everything. There is a hairpin turn with a nice view of the Valley: this is roughly the halfway point.

Mt Hollywood Dr will take you all the way to the Observatory. There is one point (of which I did not take a picture; I apologise) where there is something of a T intersection, and another road splits off to the left. Keep going straight(ish)! If you go left you will walk just below the crest of a ridge which probably has lovely views of the valley and apparently leads to a rock, but you will not get to the Observatory! Keep on heading south. You will go sort of around a corner and over a hill. This is the right way.
Shortly after you find yourself on the LA Basin side of the hill, there will be a dirt road that turns off in the direction of the Hollywood Sign. This is, I believe, a big part of the reason Mt Hollywood Dr is closed to traffic, because They want to keep hordes of tourists away from gawking at the Hollywood Sign. You get some very nice views of it from this trail but I just don't see the appeal – the Observatory has a cloud chamber! Does the Hollywood Sign have a cloud chamber? I don't think so! Anyway, the trail out in that direction looked to be full of pony rides, people running with their dogs, and tourists. Blah.
Then you round a bend and – there is the Observatory! [cue heavenly chorus] From this vantage point you can look at a road down below you and smirk at how far away people have to find street parking because the parking lot is full. Feel free to make derisive comments about them having to hike a long way anyway even though they drove; they probably won't hear you. (Probably best not to shout.)
From here it's easy: just keep walking to the beacon of science and awesomeness perched on the hill. It may try to test you!

But you will figure it out eventually.
Make sure you go downstairs – that's where the cloud chamber is! – and if you like you can visit The Nerdiest Cafe in the World. (You will understand when you get there. If you don't, you are not nerdy enough.) If you have a question, ask a docent! They are there to help and they know their stuff (or know where to find someone who does). After your brain has been glutted on the vast incomprehensible coolness of the universe, it's time to head back! Probably best to do this at least 2 1/2 hours before sunset, unless you like night hiking.
On the return journey you may see:

Our Fair City, resplendent with distantly gleaming ocean and an atmosphere you can taste – Mmmm, boy!

A California Thrasher! If it is puffed up and doesn't seem to care that you almost stepped on it, it probably has salmonella. Do not touch! But pictures are OK, especially if it was on your list of Birds to See when you were six and you never got to.

Ireland! ... Okay, not really. I wanted to go look in those caves, though. Not enough to tromp through the bush and risk Almost Certain Snakes, but they looked pretty darn cool.
LOOK IT'S SO GREEEEN:

If you do not think this is freakishly green you clearly do not live in Southern California. It'll be brown from June to December so enjoy it while you can!
If you time it right, you should get back to your car just in time to enjoy a lovely sunset.

Because it's all paved roads, it is perfectly possible to take a bike on this route, as long as you are not horrified by the idea of a very long gradual incline. It's downhill all the way back! We were passed a few times by road bikers coasting down who had to have been going about 50mph. [shudder]
STUFF TO BRING
Water
More water
Emergency rations in case you get lost or stuck somewhere (chocolate is good!)
Lunch (if you do not want to patronise the cafe)
A warm shirt or jacket in case you are still up there after sunset, as the temperature drops quickly. Also, there can be a big difference between the Valley and the Basin sides of the hill.
More water
A compass (even if you have a good sense of direction it's useful to have on hand)
People from out of town (if they like walking, and nature, and cloud chambers)
In case I haven't mentioned it before on this blog, Griffith Observatory is the coolest place in LA. FACT.

Ever since finding this out I have intended to try to cross the park to get to it, but the general wisdom is Single Young(ish) Females Do Not Hike in Griffith Park Alone. I do not possess any martial arts skills, nor am I all that confident I could outrun anyone, so my aspirations were doomed to remain hypothetical.
But!
I recently discovered that one of my colleagues was an avid hiker and wanted to get back into it, so I proposed an Expedition, and he agreed! I figured out the course on Google Maps, and we set out on Saturday, which was the perfect temperature for hiking, if a bit hazy.
THE VOICE OF (limited) EXPERIENCE:
If you do not live in Burbank, or if you do but feel the need to drive, as long as you get there earlyish there is ample street parking along Zoo Dr near the Live Steamers. Travel Town also has a parking lot but they close it off at around sunset. You might also be able to park somewhere at the cemetery, I don't know.
The beginning of the trail (a.k.a. Griffith Park Dr) goes up from the west side of Travel Town. You can't miss it. It goes up. Follow that road until you get to this intersection:

If you take either of the routes to the left you will head towards the golf courses. This is lovely if you plan to play golf, but if you are aiming for the Observatory you'll have to climb the Hill of Death on the perimeter of the old dump to get back on track. I do not call it Hill of Death lightly: It is long. It is very steep. I think every sore muscle I got from this hike is from the 10-15 minutes spent on this hill (incl. pauses to gasp) and not from the 2 1/2 hour walk along the actual trail.
Anyway. Turn right! Fear not ye closèd gate; it is only to keep traffic off Mt Hollywood Dr. (There is a sign marking this intersection but I did not see it the first time on account of it lurking against a hillside rather than, y'know, at the corner. Psh.
At this point you begin possibly the loveliest part of the hike, what with the trees and everything. There is a hairpin turn with a nice view of the Valley: this is roughly the halfway point.

Mt Hollywood Dr will take you all the way to the Observatory. There is one point (of which I did not take a picture; I apologise) where there is something of a T intersection, and another road splits off to the left. Keep going straight(ish)! If you go left you will walk just below the crest of a ridge which probably has lovely views of the valley and apparently leads to a rock, but you will not get to the Observatory! Keep on heading south. You will go sort of around a corner and over a hill. This is the right way.
Shortly after you find yourself on the LA Basin side of the hill, there will be a dirt road that turns off in the direction of the Hollywood Sign. This is, I believe, a big part of the reason Mt Hollywood Dr is closed to traffic, because They want to keep hordes of tourists away from gawking at the Hollywood Sign. You get some very nice views of it from this trail but I just don't see the appeal – the Observatory has a cloud chamber! Does the Hollywood Sign have a cloud chamber? I don't think so! Anyway, the trail out in that direction looked to be full of pony rides, people running with their dogs, and tourists. Blah.
Then you round a bend and – there is the Observatory! [cue heavenly chorus] From this vantage point you can look at a road down below you and smirk at how far away people have to find street parking because the parking lot is full. Feel free to make derisive comments about them having to hike a long way anyway even though they drove; they probably won't hear you. (Probably best not to shout.)
From here it's easy: just keep walking to the beacon of science and awesomeness perched on the hill. It may try to test you!

But you will figure it out eventually.
Make sure you go downstairs – that's where the cloud chamber is! – and if you like you can visit The Nerdiest Cafe in the World. (You will understand when you get there. If you don't, you are not nerdy enough.) If you have a question, ask a docent! They are there to help and they know their stuff (or know where to find someone who does). After your brain has been glutted on the vast incomprehensible coolness of the universe, it's time to head back! Probably best to do this at least 2 1/2 hours before sunset, unless you like night hiking.
On the return journey you may see:

Our Fair City, resplendent with distantly gleaming ocean and an atmosphere you can taste – Mmmm, boy!

A California Thrasher! If it is puffed up and doesn't seem to care that you almost stepped on it, it probably has salmonella. Do not touch! But pictures are OK, especially if it was on your list of Birds to See when you were six and you never got to.

Ireland! ... Okay, not really. I wanted to go look in those caves, though. Not enough to tromp through the bush and risk Almost Certain Snakes, but they looked pretty darn cool.
LOOK IT'S SO GREEEEN:

If you do not think this is freakishly green you clearly do not live in Southern California. It'll be brown from June to December so enjoy it while you can!
If you time it right, you should get back to your car just in time to enjoy a lovely sunset.

Because it's all paved roads, it is perfectly possible to take a bike on this route, as long as you are not horrified by the idea of a very long gradual incline. It's downhill all the way back! We were passed a few times by road bikers coasting down who had to have been going about 50mph. [shudder]
STUFF TO BRING
Water
More water
Emergency rations in case you get lost or stuck somewhere (chocolate is good!)
Lunch (if you do not want to patronise the cafe)
A warm shirt or jacket in case you are still up there after sunset, as the temperature drops quickly. Also, there can be a big difference between the Valley and the Basin sides of the hill.
More water
A compass (even if you have a good sense of direction it's useful to have on hand)
People from out of town (if they like walking, and nature, and cloud chambers)